Troubleshooting
Well Pump Runs but No Water Comes Out
If the pump is running and the pressure gauge won't move, water is being lost between the pump and the tank — or the pump has nothing to pump. Either way, the motor is at risk.
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A pump that runs while the gauge stays near zero is either moving water that never reaches the tank (a broken or separated drop pipe, a check valve stuck shut, a closed valve) or not moving water at all (the water level has dropped below the intake, a jet pump has lost its prime, the intake is clogged, or a coupling or shaft has broken). Confirm the valves near the tank are open, then switch the pump's breaker off — pumps are cooled and lubricated by the water they move, and running without flow damages them.
Cut power now
Don't let the pump keep running while you investigate. A submersible motor depends on water flowing past it for cooling,[1] and a jet pump's seal and impeller are damaged by running dry. Turn the breaker off, then work through the checks below.
First, is it really running?
People often say "the pump runs" when they hear a hum or see the pressure switch closed. Those aren't the same thing:
- A steady hum or whir from a jet pump, or the sound of water moving in the pipes, means the motor is turning.
- A loud hum that stops after a few seconds, often with a click, can mean the motor is trying to start and failing — then an overload trips. That belongs in pump won't turn on.
- Submersibles are usually silent from the house. You may hear the pressure switch close and, on some systems, a relay in the control box. A contractor confirms a running motor with an amp reading.
Jet pump or submersible? The causes differ
If there's a pump motor in your basement or well house, you have a jet pump. If the only thing at the well is a cap and all the equipment inside is the tank and switch, it's a submersible. More in submersible vs. jet pumps.
Jet pumps pull (suction) or recirculate water through an ejector; submersibles push. Depth figures are manufacturer guidance for shallow-well jets (Pentair: a deep-well package may be needed beyond 25 ft to water).
Checks you can safely make
Safe to check (power off)
- Valves. Make sure every valve between the well and the tank is open. After plumbing or treatment work, a closed valve is a surprisingly common cause.
- Freezing. In cold weather, check exposed pipes in the well house, pit or crawl space. Thaw with warm air or a heat lamp at a safe distance — never an open flame. Pentair lists frozen pipes as a cause of a jet pump delivering no water.[2]
- Recent heavy use or drought. If the problem came after hours of irrigation or a dry spell, the water level may be below the intake. Leave the pump off for a few hours and try again. Franklin's guidance for a low water level is to shut the pump off and let the well recover.[1]
- Write down the story — when it started, what the gauge read, whether the breaker tripped, whether the water was cloudy before it stopped.
If you have a jet pump
For shallow-well and convertible jet pumps, lost prime is the first suspect. Pentair's manual says to stop the pump and check prime before looking for other causes: with power off, remove the priming plug and see whether water fills the priming hole.[2] Its troubleshooting chart lists these reasons a jet pump runs but delivers no water:
| Cause | What the manual recommends |
|---|---|
| Lost prime from air leaks | Check suction-line connections (soapy water shows leaks) and the shaft seal; re-prime. |
| Water level below the suction pipe inlet | Lower the suction line and re-prime; if the water level exceeds 25 ft, a deep-well pump is needed. |
| Foot valve or strainer plugged or buried in sand | Clean it; raise it above the bottom of the source. |
| Ejector or impeller plugged | Clean the ejector or impeller. |
| Check valve or foot valve stuck shut | Replace the valve. |
| Frozen pipes | Thaw; bury pipes below the frost line; heat the pit or pump house. |
Before you re-prime
Turn the breaker off and open a faucet to relieve pressure before removing any plug. Follow your pump's own manual for the priming procedure and plug location. If a jet pump loses prime again within days, there's a leak or a failing foot valve — repeated re-priming only hides it.
If you have a submersible pump
Franklin Electric's troubleshooting table for a motor that runs continuously lists the causes that apply when little or no water arrives: low water level in the well, a worn pump, a loose coupling or broken motor shaft, a blocked pump screen, a check valve stuck closed, and a leak — including a leak in the drop pipe.[1] All of these are down the well.
| Cause | Clue | Repair path |
|---|---|---|
| Water below the pump intake | Came on after heavy use or drought; water returns after the well rests | Measure static and pumping level; throttle or lower the pump |
| Broken or separated drop pipe | Sudden total loss; pump sounds (and amps read) normal | Pull pump, replace pipe and fittings |
| Check valve stuck shut | Often after a repair or a long idle period | Replace the valve (pulling the pump if it's down the well) |
| Clogged intake screen | Gradual loss before total loss; sand or iron in the water | Pull and clean pump; address the sediment source |
| Broken shaft or coupling, worn pump | Motor runs, pump doesn't move water | Pump end replacement or new pump |
Professional-only work
Pulling a submersible pump can mean lifting hundreds of feet of pipe, wire and a water-filled pump out of the casing, often with a pump hoist or service rig. It also exposes you to the energized cable if the circuit isn't locked out. Well contractors do this every day; homeowners get hurt doing it. Don't remove the well cap yourself: the pump's power cable runs through it, so treat the wellhead as electrical equipment.
If the gauge reads zero and the pump is silent
That's a different problem: the pump isn't getting power or isn't being told to start. Go to well pump won't turn on. If the gauge reads zero but you do have some water, the gauge itself may have failed — HomeGuide lists a pressure gauge replacement at $150–$200 installed.[3]
What it's likely to cost
Because most "runs but no water" repairs on a submersible involve pulling the pump, labor is the big variable. HomeGuide reports that a two-person well repair crew charges $150–$300 per hour, and that well pump replacement runs $1,000–$2,500 for a submersible or $400–$1,400 for a jet pump, installed.[3][4] A drop pipe repair on a shallow setting can cost far less than a new pump; ask what was found when the pump came up.
When to call a professional
Not sure the pump is actually running? Work through the first five minutes of checks in our troubleshooting guide.
- You have a submersible pump and the gauge stays near zero while it runs.
- A jet pump won't hold its prime.
- Water was sandy or muddy before it stopped.
- The breaker trips when the pump tries to run.
Sources
- Franklin Electric. Submersible Motors: Application, Installation & Maintenance (AIM) Manual, 60 Hz. Accessed Sept. 28, 2026.
- Pentair. Pro Shallow Well Jet Pumps — Installation & Operation Manual (P15001, 2023). Accessed Sept. 28, 2026.
- HomeGuide. How Much Does Well Pump Repair Cost? (article dated Aug. 6, 2025). Accessed Sept. 28, 2026.
- HomeGuide. How Much Does a Well Pump Cost To Replace or Install? (article dated Aug. 7, 2025). Accessed Sept. 28, 2026.
We cite manufacturer documentation and public agencies first. Read how we choose and check sources.