Troubleshooting
Well Pump Won't Turn On: What to Check, in Order
A pump that won't start is usually an electrical story: no power, a switch that won't close, or a motor that can't start. Most of the checks are for a licensed pro — but the first three are yours.
On this page
When a well pump won't start, the cause is almost always in the electrical chain: no power (tripped breaker, blown fuse, a switch turned off), a pressure switch that doesn't close (burned contacts, a clogged sensing port, a tripped low-pressure cutoff), a control box fault on three-wire pumps, or a motor that can't start — a failed motor or cable, a sand-locked pump, or low voltage. Check the breaker and disconnect, listen for the switch, and stop there if a breaker trips twice.
One reset, then stop
Reset a tripped pump breaker once. If it trips again — right away or after a few seconds of humming — leave it off. Repeated resets feed current into a fault in a wet environment. Opening the pressure switch, control box or disconnect, and any voltage testing, is work for a licensed electrician or well contractor. Pentair warns that capacitor voltage can be hazardous even with power off.[1]
What to check, in order
These are the power-side steps of our well pump troubleshooting guide, in the order a contractor would take them.
Safe to check
- Breaker. Find the pump breaker (usually a two-pole breaker). A tripped breaker sits in the middle or off position. Push it fully off, then on — once.
- Disconnects and switches. Some systems have a disconnect, fused switch or plain on/off switch near the tank or at the well house. Confirm it's on. Fuses that have blown need replacing by someone qualified to open that box.
- Gauge and click. Open a faucet and watch the gauge. When pressure reaches your cut-in (for example, 30 psi), you should hear the pressure switch click. A click with no pump points past the switch (control box, motor, wiring). No click at all points at the switch or its supply.
- Low-pressure cutoff. Some pressure switches have a small lever on the side that shuts the pump off if pressure falls very low, and stays off until someone resets it. If yours has one, the label inside the cover shows how it works. A cutoff that trips again usually means the pump ran out of water — see runs but no water.
- Heat and sun. Franklin Electric notes that direct sun or another heat source can make control-box protectors trip, and that the box should not be hot to the touch.[2] If the box is in a hot, sunny well house, mention it to your contractor.
What a pro checks next
Franklin Electric's troubleshooting table for a motor that doesn't start lists these causes, in this order: no power or incorrect voltage (it should be within 10% of the motor's rated voltage), blown fuses or tripped breakers, a defective pressure switch, a control box malfunction, defective wiring, a bound pump, and a defective cable or motor.[2]
| Cause | Clue you might notice | How it's confirmed | Typical fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure switch contacts burned or pitted | No click, or a click without the pump starting; switch is old | Voltage across the contacts | New switch and sensing nipple |
| Clogged sensing nipple | Pressure falls well below cut-in before anything happens | Remove and inspect the nipple | Replace nipple (and usually the switch) |
| Control box fault (3-wire pumps) | Hum or relay click, then nothing; happened after a storm | Capacitor and relay tests | Capacitor, relay or whole box |
| Low voltage | Lights dim when the pump tries to start; long wire run | Voltage at the switch while starting | Utility or wiring correction |
| Bound (sand-locked) pump | Breaker trips on start; sandy water history | Amps 3–6× normal until the overload trips[2] | Pull and clear or replace pump |
| Failed motor or cable | Breaker trips immediately, or nothing at all | Winding resistance and insulation tests | Pump/motor replacement or cable splice |
If the breaker keeps tripping
A tripping breaker is a symptom, not a diagnosis. The breaker is doing its job: something is drawing more current than the circuit allows. Common reasons on a well circuit are a motor or cable fault, a sand-locked pump, a failing control box, or a motor that overheats because it starts too often (see short cycling). Franklin's table for "motor runs but overload protector trips" adds incorrect voltage and an overheated control box to that list.[2]
- Trips instantly — suspect a short in the motor, cable or wiring.
- Hums, then trips — suspect a motor that can't turn (bound pump) or a start problem (capacitor or relay on three-wire systems).
- Runs, then trips after a while — suspect overheating, low voltage, a worn pump drawing high current, or excessive cycling.
After a brief power interruption, give the system a moment before restoring power: Franklin cautions that restarting a motor within 5 seconds after power is removed may trip the motor overload.[2]
After a lightning storm or power outage
Lightning and utility surges are a common reason pumps quit suddenly. Franklin's installation checklist calls for a dedicated, properly grounded surge arrestor on submersible motors.[2] If your pump stopped during a storm, ask the contractor to check the pressure switch, control box and surge protection, not just the motor.
Professional-only work
- Removing the pressure switch cover or control box cover.
- Voltage, amperage, resistance or insulation testing.
- Replacing capacitors, relays, switches or fuses inside enclosures.
- Anything at the wellhead or down the well.
Typical repair costs
| Repair | Range | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure switch | $150–$200 | HomeGuide[3] |
| Motor start capacitor | $150–$300 | HomeGuide; three-wire systems and jet pumps |
| Control box | $300–$600 | HomeGuide; three-wire submersibles |
| Submersible pump replacement | $1,000–$2,500 | HomeGuide[4] |
| Jet pump replacement | $400–$1,400 | HomeGuide |
Two-wire submersibles have their starting parts inside the motor, so a start failure on those usually means pulling the pump. Three-wire pumps keep those parts in the above-ground control box, where repairs are cheaper.[2] See pressure switches & controls for how the pieces fit together.
Sources
- Pentair. Pro Shallow Well Jet Pumps — Installation & Operation Manual (P15001, 2023). Accessed Sept. 28, 2026.
- Franklin Electric. Submersible Motors: Application, Installation & Maintenance (AIM) Manual, 60 Hz. Accessed Sept. 28, 2026.
- HomeGuide. How Much Does Well Pump Repair Cost? (article dated Aug. 6, 2025). Accessed Sept. 28, 2026.
- HomeGuide. How Much Does a Well Pump Cost To Replace or Install? (article dated Aug. 7, 2025). Accessed Sept. 28, 2026.
We cite manufacturer documentation and public agencies first. Read how we choose and check sources.